Wild wind howled through the auburn autumnal leaves and across the rolling green hills on either side of the secluded, narrow road that we carefully tread along, excitedly pursuing filming locations for Outlander…
My brother Josh, happened to be my travel companion this past October, and we both remained quietly stunned by the scenery at each turn: thick woodlands spilling into pretty streams, centuries-old wooden bridges and an odd few sheep tenderly grazing under patchy grey skies.
Filming locations for Outlander
It felt like an adventure, and that’s because it was!
Rewind an hour, and we were sitting on a local bus which for just a few dollars was ferrying us around the area from Inverness to famous Loch Ness, its castles and ruins.
We were on our way to Culloden Battlefield, a vast windswept moor that preserves stories of the Jacobite rising that came to an entirely tragic end here on 16 April 1746.
History buffs, fans of Scotland and indeed those of a seductively popular television series called Outlander will be familiar with the locations.
Josh and I were discussing our day’s plan when a sweet woman turned around in her seat to chat to us. She asked where we were from, because she recognised our accents and said she had family dotted around Australia.
As it happens, in her 70 years young she’s done a lot of travelling and had some great tips to share, one being for us to get off the beaten track about 30-minutes’ walk from Culloden, to seek an ancient burial ground called Clava Cairns.
Clava Cairns and Outlander film locations
I’m one of those Outlander fans eagerly awaiting the return to telly this month of time-travellers Jamie and Claire Fraser.
Scotland now offers plenty of ‘Outlander travel experiences’ that attract thousands of enthusiasts seeking the filming locations for Outlander, and Clava Cairns happens to be an integral part of this.
While ‘Craigh na Dun’, the mysterious stone circle where Claire falls through time in Scotland to the 1700s in the books and television series does not actually exist, Clava Cairns is understood to be author Diana Gabaldon’s inspiration for the spot.
So, willing to walk – because Josh and I have always been into the mystical, mythological and downright creepy (our parents are very proud) – we went in search of this millennia-old site.
These exceptional 4000-year-old remains of an ancient cemetery are set on a terrace above the River Nairn, and an appropriately atmospheric breeze washed dust and leaves through the ghostly site as we pushed open a rickety fence and made our way inside.
Historical sites of Scotland
There are four cairns (the word ‘cairn’ hailing from the Scottish Gaelic, càrn, meaning a human-made stack of stones) and three standing stone circles here. The three prominent cairns form lines aligned with the sun solstices and show hints of forgotten beliefs carved into the stones.
Our friendly local guide on the bus had shared stories of how she and her friend experienced extreme emotions and rushes of energy on touching some of the larger stones in the circles.
Josh and I can attest to feeling what can only be described as a very heavy sensation within one of the open-air stone tombs, and admittedly I felt like it wouldn’t be right to take photos inside.
A strange tale I’ve read since, is that of a Belgian tourist who claimed to have been cursed after taking a stone away from Clava Cairns. He and his family swiftly encountered such terrible luck including job losses, accidents and ill health, that the disturbed visitor anonymously posted the ‘souvenir’ back to the Inverness tourist centre and requested it be returned to the site.
Superstitious or not, this excellent adventure provides an off-road glimpse into the true heart of the Highlands, a rugged, romantic destination where you may very well be standing in 2018; or is it 1743? Just be careful what you touch or wish for.
First published in Get it Magazine, November 2018, getit-magazine.com.au
In the UK, we’ve sadly come out of our summer months. Is anyone feeling the post-holidays blues? Who’s already started travel planning for the months ahead? The day job just doesn’t stand up to sunny days and balmy music-filled nights on the Med.
Enter two lovely new books by Lonely Planet: Culture Trails and Everyday Adventures…
Personal travel planning: two inspiring new guides
They say the only way to get through it, is to plan something else to look forward to. I’m an advocate of personal travel planning. I love the research. I’m happiest when I invest the time to find something that’s right for Cooper and I.
We are currently planning for four days in Lisbon at Christmastime. The gorgeous Portuguese city has been on our bucket-list for a while. So, we’re making it happen this year. We’ve decided on a city-break rather than an island escape. Which we’ve enjoyed for the past two years, see Christmas in Mallorca and Ibiza.
It seems a shame to not live in the moment and I wanted to share a couple of inspiring resources. Courtesy of Lonely Planet, one being a gorgeous book that encourages us to create adventures in our own backyards!
Personal travel planning ahead for the ultimate adventure
This delicious coffee table book is brimming with 52 amazing destinations, including Lisbon. Culture Trails explores each destination by way of a theme like music, art, literature. It’s beautifully designed and filled with wanderlust-inducing images.
Taking a look at Lisbon, for example, Culture Trails explores its ‘artistry that speaks to the soul’. It’s given us a glimpse into unique cultural experiences and top attractions we should pursue to get a taste of the heart of the place.
Each destination also gives a taste of where you might like to stay, eat, drink and even a list of key celebrations or festivals that you might like to time your trip with.
Culture Trails is an aspirational hard-cover publication, just like the lovely new Wellness Escapes, also from Lonely Planet. It’s easy to browse, exploring destinations through the eyes of the authors and photographers. It would make a great gift too for others who enjoy planning their own travel too.
While it did cross our minds that ‘52’ might mean ‘one destination every week’, we haven’t figured out how to fund that without the day job.
Which brings me to Everyday Adventures…
How to be inspired now: planning localised travel adventures
This book totally surprised me – it’s quirky, fun and full of lovely ideas on new adventures you can create for yourself in your own backyard (or, the city where you live).
We’re in London so spoilt for choice, but when you work hard all week and are tired by the weekend, it’s easy to let opportunities slip by.
Also, London is an example of a city that can be quite expensive, so if you’re trying to save then much can feel out of reach.
Everyday Adventures offers various styles of ‘travel’ for you to pursue, like active, eco-friendly, exploratory, meditative, romantic, group or solo adventures.
You can choose according to budget available and each activity offers a score on how complicated it might be to pull off.
One nice idea is to leave a little early for work and stop by a café you’ve never been to and enjoy breakfast there, for a change of scenery to break up the week.
Another I love, that we tried this past weekend, is called ‘puppy pursuit’ where you let a dog lead you around on a walk. Try this if you’re house and pet sitting! You go where their nose takes them, so to speak.
Filled with case studies, stories and loads of ideas to plan a day of ‘travel’ that’s far from average, this book seems the perfect antidote to post-holiday blues; following it as a guide and making a game of it, you’ll have an adventure on your hands in no time.
We are east Londoners so don’t often venture across the other side of the city on weekends, but we’ve been keen to visit the new Japan House Kensington for a while.
This past sunny Saturday we chose to make a day of it and find the best new things to do in South Kensington, London.
Our itinerary turned out to be fun, so I’m sharing it with you, whether you’re a local looking to explore, or you’re travelling and staying in Kensington and seeking newer cultural experiences.
London day out itinerary: Japan House Kensington and the best new things to do in South Kensington
Japan House Kensington
We are huge fans of Japan and our lovely sister-in-law, Asami, inspires us to seek whatever knowledge we can about this fascinating country.
When we read about Japan House Kensington opening, it was swiftly added to our ‘must do’ list, especially as we’d already had a look through the cool Japan Centre in Soho, we wanted to compare.
The space is sleek and clean, boasting design that pleases the eye.
Set across three levels, at the Japan House Kensington, you can shop for unique gifts, plan a travel trip, relax in the library, and soak up history within the exhibition area.
Japan House is intended to offer full cultural immersion through food, art, hospitality, events and carefully curated exhibitions.
Japan is famous for its cuisine and at Japan House, centrally positioned in a Grade II Heritage Listed Art Deco building on High Street Kensington, there’s a beautiful restaurant on the top level, and a cafe at street level.
I tried a Matcha tea shot (or ‘small tea’) – traditionally brewed in front of us – quite bitter to taste and very strong.
At first I didn’t feel so good because I hadn’t eaten in the morning, but I’m pretty sure the tea gave me a clean energy boost that lasted the entire day. I’m sold.
Japan House Kensington is one of three new cultural centres that aim to show the ‘real’ Japan, the other two being in São Paulo and Los Angeles.
Everything at Japan House is Japanese, from the floor tiles to the chefs preparing authentic cuisine.
It’s easy to pop in for a quick look around, or spend a while browsing the displays and books.
japanhouselondon.uk
Design Museum
Under a ten-minute walk from Japan House Kensington is the fabulous Design Centre in its new SW London home.
The Design Museum was housed in a former banana warehouse on the Thames at Tower Bridge for 27 years, before moving to Kensington and becoming one of the best new things to do in the area.
Upon entering the building in South Kensington, we learn that the place was founded by Sir Terence Conran in the belief that design has a vital part to play in shaping and understanding the world.
Honestly, visiting here was a highlight of our day out finding the best of contemporary Kensington attractions.
The museum celebrates creativity and innovation, and all that has shaped the world around us, including design we might not even see or consider, such as digital design.
The Design Museum, like Japan House Kensington, is picture-perfect in shape and design. It’s mostly free but there are paid exhibitions that might interest you too.
Aside from being visually engaging across all exhibitions that range from fashion to typewriters, transport and political posters, the Design Museum asks us to think about the world around us. How did we get to Kensington – bus or train? Have we looked at a map today; touched a phone; put on shoes; posted to social media?
All of our activities involve design, and usually a manufacturing process developing goods for a specific end-user.
This immersive and interactive experience offers a glimpse into familiar objects of the past and present like cameras, computers and calculators. It also showcases futuristic 3D-printed objects, virtual products and a projection of the world’s transport, immigration and healthcare systems as time ticks on.
A thoroughly enjoyable reminder of the creativity and innovation we are surrounded by each and every day. It’s time we stop taking it all for granted, I think. Drop by the Design Museum for a visit – I dare you – it’ll make you think differently.
designmuseum.org
Time for lunch at Zuaya in South Kensington
In keeping with our theme exploring the best new things to do in South Kensington, visiting Japan House Kensington and the Design Museum, we made our way to a new restaurant, Zuaya.
Zuaya is a short stroll from Japan House or the Design Museum and is opposite an entrance to Kensington Park – perfect for walking off a big meal later on.
It’s a fabulous South American themed restaurant, with a chic rainforest-themed interior.
The menu draws on influence from Mexico, Argentina and Peru and all dishes are absolutely photo-worthy.
Service at Zuaya was excellent, and we enjoyed our dining experience.
There’s a range of sharing options at Zuaya, as well as an a la carte menu, all reasonably priced. If you’re up for ditching the usual high-street chains which are plentiful in this area, give it a go.
I particularly liked the vegetable cau cau, a stew of sweet potato, butternut squash, mint and Peruvian potato (pictured above).
The dessert menu is tempting too, but we highly recommend the smooth and creamy home-made mango ice-cream. Yummy!
Take a look at the website or Instagram feed for more London foodie inspiration.
zuaya.co.uk
V&A Museum: the future starts here
Your afternoon itinerary could vary greatly in Kensington, depending on the weather and your interests.
As mentioned, a wander through the neighbouring parks of Kensington and Hyde is entirely viable; you could visit Kensington Palace too, or the shops on the high street.
We chose to catch a bus about five minutes up the road and got off at the Albert Hall stop with Exhibition Road in our sights.
This road is pretty busy – understandably – it houses a number of London’s most popular museums that are all free to enter, including the Science Museum and Natural History Museum.
Today however, we wanted to go somewhere new and found ourselves inside the very excellent Victoria and Albert (V&A) museum. Dubbed ‘the world’s leading museum of art and design’, it’s also free to enter, however we being particularly technologically-curious, decided to pay for an exhibition called The Future Starts Here.
Wow!
This exhibition showcases ‘100 projects shaping the world of tomorrow’.
This includes robots, social bots and wearable tech; digital avatars keeping you around upon death; emails to trees; and bracelets designed to revive you after death (pictured above) if you are one of the couple of thousand who have signed up for cryonics and wish to be frozen but woken when we figure out how to do it!
Most fascinating is a live project that tracks a young Nigerian living in LA who has faced homelessness and trauma through years of hiding from immigration officers, knowing that if his meagre income as an Uber driver were to cease in America, his family back in Niger would be totally ruined.
He agreed to be part of this project that tracks his insomnia as well as use of WhatsApp and Instagram so he can keep in touch with his much-loved and missed family and friends back home. Pictured above, when the curtains are open it means he’s using these services and they also show where he is within his sleep patterns.
A study hailing all the way from our home of Queensland was featured too, and upon donning this attractive headset, you’re dropped into the middle of an extraordinary colourful coral reef to explore as if you’re in the waters just off Cairns.
So cool!
I won’t give the rest of the secrets of this exhibition away. You really might enjoy it for yourself. If you miss it though, there’s plenty of other options at the V&A. I’ll definitely return soon.
vam.ac.uk
Final stop: dessert at Maitre Choux
A shout-out to our friend Lisa for suggesting this little spot, about five minutes walk from the V&A.
Maitre Choux bakes fresh eclairs and chouquettes every day, made by none other than three Michelin Star pastry chef Joakim Prat.
For a decadent little treat (or two) to get you through the rest of your day, this will hit the spot.
There’s a colourful array of delicious goodies, but the place is small so choose a time when it’s likely to be a bit quieter. Saturday around 3pm was fine, and you can take-away or dine in for respite from the crowds outside.
Find this place on Instagram for a regular dose of prettiness.
maitrechoux.com
That’s our day itinerary in SW London – from Japan House Kensington to a host of museum experiences and delicious, adventurous food. The activities are mostly indoors so perfect if it’s getting a little chilly outside or it’s raining.
I write this from grey old London, in a space where I’m subjected to rap music that doesn’t impress me much. Take me back to the Ibiza sunset and energy of my new favourite spot in the world.
I thought Ibiza, Spain had shaken its party-hard reputation.Yet that’s all anyone back at work knows of it. Well, except one colleague who I happened to see from a distance during my time on the White Isle. …7 months pregnant, mind you. She proves Ibiza isn’t just for raving.
Ibiza sunset and magic moments
I felt Ibiza’s secret allure the very first time I got to visit. It was back in the winter of 2016. I had always always wanted to go. Now I want to stay.
Admittedly the place was on my radar in my 20s because of the dance music scene. If you’re into the genre like I am, this is the destination for you. Just like each season’s style is previewed at the four big Fashion Weeks of the world, New York, London, Paris and Milan, every year the best in dance starts right here.
The biggest-selling music genre in the world launches here each year. Every summer, on this stunning island in the Mediterranean, you’ll find out what’s ‘next’ in dance.
I was in Australia back when I first wished I could come. A very long way from Ushuaia’s day raves. Or the Ibiza sunset in front of Café Mambo, and the superstar DJ sets of Hï.
Music (and the rest) gets the best of me
I talk about the music, because yeah, it’s everywhere. It’s just so excellent. But don’t be fooled, Ibiza isan island for everyone. Dry-warm 30-degree August days. Sunlight sparkling as it bounces across clear blue ocean.
Surrounding islands lure the curious. Take a day trip from the marina or San Antonio.
Quaint traditional villages and cathedrals, and the most stylish bars and restaurants you’ll find in the world are open right here, right now. There’s experiences you can book: sustainable farming, cooking classes, meditation and Yoga.
Then there’s the divine Old Town on a hill keeping watch of it all.
Secret paths unravel along the coast, surprising at the end of the road with shabby-chic cafes or lone restaurants boasting the most romantic views. It’s truly a creative’s dream, inspiring, peaceful and freeing. I strongly suspect I’m not the only one to feel this way.
While the ‘white island’ is known for being a haven for hippies back in the 60s and 70s, it was already popular with artists and writers from the 1930s.
Their hearts melted like mine has, in this exquisite little paradise. Each of us dwelling in the tranquillity of it all.
My friend described this experience – the Ibiza sunsets and the sparkling energy of the place – as influencing personal transformation.
‘I just want to buy a bunch of shell bracelets and lounge around in my Yoga pants. I want to be a hippy’, she laughs.
I agree, in the most affectionate of ways.
Hippy chic
The hippy influence is still alive and well, especially in the summer months when the island swells to five times its population.
The famous hippy market at Santa Eulalia (open every Wednesday in summer) offer a huge collection of stalls, handmade wares and goodies representing love and harmony.
Another amazing experience during the summer months, inspired by these local hippies, is drumming at Benirrás beach (10 minutes’ drive from San Miguel). It happens each Sunday. This all started on Sunday 18 August 1991, when a large gathering of anti-war (first Gulf war in Iraq) activists gathered for what became known as ‘the day of the drums’. The ‘day’ itself has been toned down, but if you get in early (by boat or car) you can sit and listen to the rhythmic beat of drums on the beach as the sun sets on another week past.
It all feels very magical, and many do seek spiritual experiences on the island. Ibiza Spotlight shares that:
“The early Phoenicians believed Ibiza to be a magic isle blessed by the Gods, because the rich, red soil is non-volcanic and the island forbids survival to any reptile, animal, insect or plant that can harm humans.
To this day many people wear amulets and pendants containing the sacred soil to protect the wearer from harm”.
Attraction, but not as you know it
With its clubbing culture so famous, if you’ve not been to Ibiza you may not guess that it’s the perfect place to rest and recuperate. The island is becoming ever-more popular for wellness and creative travel options, including retreats. Hiking as well as water or land fitness escapes are the types of trips on the rise too.
What really piques my interest here (outside of having the chance to shake hands with my fave DJ Armin Van Burren) is the mysteries that surround this old island. Particularly the stories of Es Vedra.
It’s a rocky limestone island off the coast which we took a boat ride and swim around. Watching the sunset across Es Vedra is highly recommended. No one lives on Es Vedra, it’s a nature reserve. You’ll need a car to get to the part of the island that overlooks Es Vedra, and there are plenty of half day or day boat trips that will take you near to it. Just ask when on Ibiza.
Es Vedra is apparently one of the world’s three most magnetic spots, outside of the North Pole and the Bermuda Triangle (another hot-spot for seekers of mysteries).
Many visitors choose a place overlooking Es Vedra to meditate and seek spiritual experiences for its ‘energy’, especially at sunrise and sunset.
It’s reported that vessels have many problems with navigational equipment when near the rock, and it’s the location of many UFO sightings. Sadly I had no such experience, but I’ve seen enough X-Files (all of them) to certainly believe.
Atlantis Ibiza?
A popular myth in these parts is that Es Vedra is the tip of the lost city of Atlantis. Atlantis Ibiza, what a suggestion.
Legend has it that the Atlanteans wanted to control the world but faced the wrath of the Gods for their arrogance.
A tsunami allegedly sunk this advanced city of Atlantis, and although there is no evidence that it even existed, Athenian philosopher Plato weighed in saying that he thought it was close to Gibraltar in the south of Spain, which is how this legend around this particular location was sparked.
Greek mythology also spells a story of the Sirens. Apparently Es Vedra was where these half human, half bird-like creatures lived.
Sirens were known for beautiful singing voices that captivated sailors but led them to their graves. Before the Sirens, perhaps, Es Vedra was considered the home of Tanit, the Phoenician lunar goddess and many sacrifices were made here during the full moon in her honour.
Shrouded in stories and mysteries, and far away from the clubs and people, its secrets of Ibiza like this that have me hooked.
Rave, rest, roam, repeat
Back on land, you can drive a car around Ibiza to explore its many lovely beaches and varied landscape that include forests of pine trees and salt flats. Book a day bed in a swanky beach club, go shopping, wander markets, sleep, sun-bathe, chill or hire a bike.
Buses are convenient and inexpensive here, although sometimes as infrequent as one or two hours, so plan your journeys.
You need some change to get around, or a note that’s under €10.
There are marinas at San Antonio and in Eivissa (main city area) where you can catch aqua ferries to various beaches, or the sublime island of Formentera.
We’ve stayed in San Antonio which is great for nightly visits to Café Mambo. On the other side of the island, Figueretas, is where we stayed one December. It’s a perfect spot for being able to walk to the Old Town and marina.
From this area you can easily catch a bus to the hippy market, beaches Es Caná or Santa Eulalia beach, and or to the opposite direction, Platja d’en Bossa home to big resorts and day clubs like UshuaÏa.
Culture Trip has published a round-up of the best places to catch the Ibiza sunset. But your sunset Ibiza experience isn’t complete until you find a spot down by the waterfront in the vicinity of Café Mambo.
Crowds wait in anticipation as the sun gradually and with control shifts towards the horizon. The moment it touches down, everyone cheers, marriage proposals are made and the music is raised.
As we raise one to the White Isle – salute! Te veo pronto!
They’re two of the world’s greatest cities with so much – too much, even – to see and do; but what if you’re tired and need to chill out in Vienna and Barcelona?
Work never seems to slow down, which means travel or a city break can feel like just another job. When that is the case, you need to set yourself up with an itinerary that builds-in time to relax. I totally related to a colleague this week who told me he’s been so snowed-under with obligations that he considered cashing-in a summer Euro city adventure and first-time trip to Vienna and Barcelona, for a chill out and do-nothing beach holiday instead.
I completely feel this. For those of us with an average job, we have limited annual leave allowance to work with. And, while anyone based centrally for travel appreciates it’s simple to get to new destinations, it can mean for example, that we jump on a plane from London late Friday night after a busy week at work, and wake up tired, day after day, despite being excited about being in a gorgeous new city. First-world problems, sure, but burn-out is a very real thing, and it’s a shame if a ‘break’ turns into a ‘break down’ by the time you get back to work.
I don’t think I could ever get enough of exploring Vienna or Barcelona, but racing around cities in an attempt to tick-off all the main attractions is actually really exhausting. My advice after perpetually learning the hard way, is to take it easy and chill out if you need to!
The conversation with my colleague inspired me to think about how I’d chill out or relax in Vienna and Barcelona if (when) I get the chance.
Vienna itinerary
Make it easy on yourself and stay centrally. We scored a great deal by booking early at the lovely Arthotel ANA Amadeus, and I’d highly recommend that area to stay in for convenience and your ability to walk everywhere. It gets pretty hot in the summer, and I have to say I was quite jealous of those I saw chilling out in the parks reading or doing nothing at all. Next time, I’ll make time!
Our hotel was air-conditioned and we did indeed take a break there during the hottest part of the day instead of forcing ourselves to walk around when we were very tired. Our intention was to rest and get out around dusk.
Take yourself on an evening wander – as the sun sets you’ll get your very best pictures of the Vienna city centre, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Hofburg, Heldenplatz and Schönbrunn Palace.
Summer evenings in Vienna must consist of some time in front of Vienna City Hall, at Rathaus where there’s a super-stylish pop-up food, music and cocktails experience that you can’t miss. We LOVED this!
Chill out in Vienna? I’d suggest soaking up the energy by giving yourself time in one of the beautiful green spaces like Volksgarten. Take a book, people-watch, nap – either way, this is how to truly indulge in the delights of Vienna. There’s generally sweet notes of classical music floating through the air from musicians playing live around the city. Divine.
You can be as busy or as chilled-out as you like in Vienna. Of course there’s plenty to see and you can be forgiven for feeling a little like you’re missing out if you’re not on the go the whole time. Vienna to me though, feels like it’s screaming out to be enjoyed mindfully, so don’t fall into the ‘busy’ trap. Find your perfect shady spot, and soak up this extraordinary place without depleting your energy reservoir.
Barcelona itinerary
Barcelona is huge, and on a short city break of three or four days you want to try and see as much as you can without using up all of your energy. There’s so much to see, do and eat here. If you want an easy way out, jump on a hop-on-hop-off bus (like City Sightseeing) to get an overview of the city, prioritise and make your own choices on where you want to get off and have a look around. Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but without lots of time, and under the heat of the Spanish sun, sometimes it is the wisest option.
Need a break? Make your way towards the beachfront, and if it’s really hot out, shout yourself a cold cocktail and enjoy the shade at a super-stylish beachfront bar like the Carpe Diem Lounge Club (pictured above) where we found ourselves taking it easy with fellow travellers during a tour a few years ago (which reminded me of this original vlog we did way back then … bit crass, but fun all the same).
Lay back on comfy day beds, watch the waves and beach revellers, eavesdrop and incidentally learn a little Spanish (‘me gustaría una copa de cava’), and chill out in the best way possible in this fabulous city.
Moral of this story? Don’t fall into the trap where you feel like you have to ‘see everything’. Life, and travel, is about experiences; quality over quantity.
Sometimes exhaustion is going to happen, but if you’re on a city break, balance the sightseeing with chill-out time. Take time to just be. You’re not missing out, you’ll gain more out of your time in the end.
What are your suggestions? Let us know in the comments
Feature image: Gothic Quarter art in Barcelona by Javier Bosch
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