What a wonderful adventure it is fro Edinburgh to Isle of Skye in Scotland.
Here’s a two-minute snapshot of life in the Scottish Highlands for a bunch of travellers on board Haggis Tours….
Edinburgh to Isle of Skye
“Do you trust your Uncle Chris?” Our amusing guide’s dulcet tones broke the silence, rousing us all from a coach-induced delirium. “Yes,” we smiled and nodded, wondering what was coming next.
“Right then, close your eyes. Close them tight, and don’t open them until I say. I’m going to tell you a story…”
A mild objection rose from the group, because at that point we were cruising throughout 360-degrees of picturesque landscapes: vast lochs, dense green terrain stretching skywards, mysterious clouds looming across the cliff-tops, the stuff of films and television − how could we look away?
“When I was little,” he continued, “My Uncle Harry brought us along this route on a family outing; he requested the same of us, and as we trusted him, we kept our eyes closed… I see you all trust me, well, except for you two in the front seat. Don’t think I can’t see you.” We giggled but kept our eyes shut (well I did anyway), as Chris proceeded with one of his wonderful tales of adventure and revelry.
Just as I was pondering how much of Mother Nature’s spectacular show I was actually missing despite being thoroughly immersed in Chris’ story, his tone notably edged towards a climax, as the coach simultaneously stopped. “And then my Uncle told us to turn our heads to the right, and open our eyes NOW.”
As forty odd heads shifted to the right, and our eyes snapped open in anticipation, we all gasped at the surreal scene, for in front of us, perched in the middle of a large loch, surrounded by peaceful lapping water, a crisp breeze and dreamy mountainous landscape, was the most gorgeous Mediaeval castle most of us had ever seen − in real life, at least. It was a scene we had envisaged when choosing this Haggis Tours Skye High expedition, and there it was for the taking.
Eilean Donan Castle, originally built in the 13th Century, but lovingly restored over the years, familiar to a few as it has been featured in various films and photo-shoots.
This wasn’t the last castle or set of romantic ruins we would come into contact with on our journey further into the Highlands of Scotland, and even though the landscape varied from lochs and mountains, to desolate, craggy regions featuring jaw-dropping sheer cliffs dipping into the icy ocean, it was all magical − everything I’d hoped.
The Isle of Skye itself is all dramatic landscapes surrounded by sea and boasts Scotland’s oldest and youngest mountains. A geologist’s dream, with something different to discover on each and every journey.
Faeries, folklore and Skye high adventure
I was more interested in the folklore of the place − and yes, stories of faeries, princesses, monsters, romance, battles and betrayal run rampant in these parts.
Fortunately for us, Chris is the very best, most passionate story-teller I’ve ever met, and his enthusiastic accounts − of history and mythology − had us enthralled for hours. His accent didn’t hurt either (notably the Scottish accent usually ranks within the top three sexiest in the world… according to Google (and a little of my own research)).
As we edged up a steep hill, ocean and windswept cliffs drew further behind us and fields of green with odd-shaped mounds emerged in front (as pictured above). Chris explained we were about to discover a sublime little place called Faerie Glen. As I happy-danced gleefully in my mind (anywhere called ‘Faerie Glen’ had to be amazing, right?), he recounted a ‘faerie-tale’ about a young prince of this world, and a faerie princess who fell in love many moons ago.
Of course, they could never be together, but the faerie king granted them a wedding plus one year and a day together. Sadly, that year passed all too quickly, and as they parted ways, broken-hearted, the faerie princess handed her true love a special faerie flag blessed with protective powers. This flag is said to have been used by Scots in the past, and indeed it has protected them.
Allegedly, some Scottish soldiers even took the flag with them into the Great War and were the only men in their group to return. While we didn’t actually get to see this charmed flag, we were privy to the home of the faeries.
Faerie Glen is a marvellous green, hilly landscape with hidden surprises − like waterfalls pouring from cliff-tops − emerging around any given corner! It’s said, if you need help with anything important here in the human realm, if you close your eyes and walk around one of these ‘faerie mounds’ seven times, a portal of light will open up in the heather and take you into the faerie underworld.
But, beware, for time passes quickly in Faerie Glen’s underworld, so if ever you are to meet a faerie here, or seek help below, your notion of fifteen minutes could indeed be seventy years ‘up here’.
This trip was more than just sensational scenery (which would have been enough); we also learned about Scotland − history, conflicts, tumultuous relationships with neighbouring England as well as between clans.
In fact, if you’re a Campbell you’re not welcome in some of these parts to this day! We of course gained knowledge of other intriguing lore… and a little background in something very important to the Scots, whisky. There are indeed many wondrous, historical and interesting elements which come together to colour contemporary Scotland.
Evidently Scotland is home to numerous renowned features, but none more famous than Loch Ness and its notorious monster. This particular destination has been on my bucket-list since childhood. My brother, Josh, and I were both fascinated by this legend when we were young, and he managed to visit ten or more years before I made it to Loch Ness.
I’d always treasured a little Nessie figurine which Josh had bought for me, and was particularly excited to finally dip my toes into the choppy waves of this spectacular body of water.
Loch Ness is massive. It contains more than twice the water England has within all of its lakes and catchments. It’s also dark under the waves, in fact, it’s pitch black at 10 metres below.
Unexplored lava caves and tubes lead off the loch, and sonar navigation systems have detected unnaturally large shapes swimming in the depths. Basically, there is a lot of space and much scope for a monster − or monsters − to hide.
Many do believe in these monsters, and if we can appreciate anything from history, it would be that while someone may seem mad for their beliefs, it does not mean they are incorrect. Did you know that scientists understand more about the surface of the moon than about the depths of these waters? Which is why believers insist yes, the monster is possible.
While the earliest report of a monster sighting associated with this area dates back to the 7th Century, modern documented sightings started in the 1930s, with the most famous picture, known as ‘the Surgeon’s Photograph’, snapped in 1934. A hysteria built around the story which continued into the 1950s, and while that has calmed, even to this day there is a policeman in Inverness (a city not too far up the road) who is tasked with the job of recording sightings.
Nobody knows whether Nessie is real or not, and that’s part of the mystique and allure of this story. There are things in Loch Ness; there are dangerous things − this is a fact. But it is the monster that makes it legendary.
From the captivating cliffs of Cuith Raing, sheer drops and waterfalls crashing into the ocean around Kilt Rock, to magical bodies of agua promising eternal youth, and the character of one of the world’s most delightful cities, Edinburgh: this Scotland and Isle of Skye journey is certainly one that leaves a happy traveller wanting more.
I discovered a blog by ‘Rachel in London’ who experienced this trip in 2009, and I feel she captures my feelings with these words. “Jane Austen’s book Northanger Abbey sums up perfectly my whirlwind of a weekend touring Scotland and the Isle of Skye:
‘If adventures will not befall a young lady in her own village, she must seek them abroad’.”
Go seek your adventure, and if I can impart any advice, seek it in Scotland.
London is a wonderful world city; most can appreciate this. What’s fascinated me about the place in recent years however, is the technology and progressive engineering that is emerging. ‘Tech City’, within London’s east-end, is the region’s equivalent to Silicon Valley, and home to many of the globe’s great technology companies. Additionally, innovative new structures are erected every year, each designed to better manage pollution and all the issues we generate as avid consumers of…. everything!
Co.Exist by international business brand, Fast Company, produced analysis on statistics in late 2012 which found London to be among the world’s top six greenest cities, alongside New York, and unsurprisingly, Vancouver, Copenhagen, Amsterdam and Stockholm.
The city held firm at number five on Fast Company’s 2012 Top 10 Smart Cities on the Planet, for intelligent use of technology and resources; “Resulting in cost and energy savings, improved service delivery and quality of life, and reduced environmental footprint”. Environmental responsibility is determined by factors such as car ownership, green space, bicycle usage, solar installations, recycling and water consumption − all taken seriously by contemporary Londoners.
Loving sustainable London
The city is simple to explore on foot, so with a day to spare I decided to emerge from the Underground and take a look at what makes this place ‘green’, and what’s driving sustainability into the future. Helping me to discover whether we can indeed learn something from operations here was Stephanie from Insider London, an organisation which has recently added another interesting walking excursion − the Cutting Edge Green Tour − to its already comprehensive, personalised guided services that showcase London from street-level.
Following the green success of the 2012 Olympic Games, numerous projects were set into play thanks to newly introduced government funding, to encourage a lasting sustainability legacy, with an aim to better balance our human needs against those of nature. Green spaces within the city’s newer precincts are a must, and my first port of call with Stephanie − Central St. Giles‘ bustling office area − provided an ideal example. This interestingly-designed space features an excellent BREEAM (Building Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Method) rating, as 80 per cent of heat in the development is generated from renewable sources (biomass), 60 per cent of rainwater falling on office roofs and into the piazza is collected and used, 100 per cent of cooling tower water discharged is collected for re-use, 90 per cent of demolition materials were sent for recycling, and green roofs and roof gardens attenuate rainfall and heat build-up. Stephanie did point out that there needs to be a balance when it comes to roof gardens − if too much water or maintenance is required it defeats the notion of sustainability, but by the same token, greenery is being added to all major cities now as it defends against smog.
We explored the London Transport Museum in Covent Garden, which was one of the first buildings in the city to be green retrofitted utilising recycled and regenerated original materials. It features concealed solar panelling too, and an ingenious ventilation system − creating what’s described as ‘the Monroe effect’ − designed to conserve energy usually required to temperature-control museum spaces. The ‘Monroe’ terminology indeed alludes to the famous picture of Marilyn caught crossing an air vent, as this describes how the cutting-edge cooling and heating system provides an even temperature, thus preserving the oldest exhibits, including three horse-drawn vehicles from the mid-19th century.
From a spectacular stand-point on Waterloo Bridge, we discussed the successes and pitfalls of recent additions to the London skyline, the Leadenhall Building, nicknamed ‘Cheesegrater’, Strata Tower, also known as the ‘razor’ for its likeness to an electric razor, and London’s famous Gherkin Tower at 30 St Mary Axe. All new developments come ready-made with simple energy and water-saving benefits, including sensor lighting (turns off when not in use), LED lights, light and temperature monitoring and rain harvesting systems. While these buildings (and the majority of sky-scrapers in London) are now rated quite high on the aforementioned BREEAM scale, another of the clan, the ‘Walkie Talkie‘ building (20 Fenchurch Street), has been re-dubbed, ‘Walkie Scorchie’ because the contractor who supplied the glass has somehow got away with using material that heats up anything in its path; akin to a death ray from Star Wars! And yes, UK journalists have taken to the street to test a theory you could fry an egg within the beams of light emitted from the building, and indeed you can! Then there’s the Strata Tower where although green measures are in play, plans for a more significant level of sustainability didn’t quite pan out. There are three massive turbines at the top of the 147-metre-high building, which were supposed to generate eight per cent of the energy needs within, however, turns out they are far too loud for anyone inside the building to be able to think, and they cause vibration − like a small, incessant earthquake. The design team are to be admired for their idea though, and it’s quite sad it hasn’t worked out as planned. Could it be that other designers perfect such a scheme in the future?
Back on street level, we discuss improvements made to the likes of the Southbank Centre, Royal National Theatre and London Eye which boast upgraded energy-saving ventilation systems and LED lighting. The new Blackfriars Bridge has been hailed “the sunniest bridge in the world” courtesy a roof made up of 4400 solar panels, which means it is apparently the largest solar bridge in the world, and the bridge produces enough clean energy to power about 50 per cent of Blackfriars transit station’s needs. Also worth a visit is the Southbank Centre Roof Garden − one of the city’s best-kept secrets − an oasis which features fruit trees, wild flowers, herbs, stunning views and a cafe and bar.
Wandering around we notice a few of London’s new fleet of electric buses ferrying commuters between central city stops. The new vehicles have three doors rather than two, which is not only more energy efficient but means additional staff score jobs as one more person is needed to man each bus (at the back end). Cycling is becoming more popular by the year here, particularly following the implementation of the ‘Boris bike’ and its hire system originally inspired by the city of Montreal in Canada, and one that has since rolled out around the world. New and improved ‘cycle highways’ are encouraging commuters to re-think costs that can be saved by cycling, not to mention the reduction of our carbon footprint and personal wellness benefits. Free, super fast electric car charging stations are now also located around the city, so you can plug in, nip into Marks & Spencer (M&S) for some groceries, and be on your way, petrol-free.
Speaking of M&S, did you know it is one of the greenest retailers in the world? Just a few of the innovations the organisation has implemented since its 2007 Plan A eco-agreement are all lights in stores are now LED, plastic shopping bags come at a cost, their operations are carbon neutral and no rubbish is sent to landfill − it’s all recycled or composted. M&S also engage local British suppliers, recycle plastic bottles into polyester which is then used in some of its clothes lines, and sell fair-trade product. Another high street example of an eco-friendly retailer is Lush, who promote a ‘naked’ policy − no packaging where possible, which saves water, energy and transport costs. There are not too many liquid products sold at Lush, and a few of the company’s innovative items include tooth tabs (an environmentally-friendly alternative to toothpaste) and ‘hard’ hand-cream and body butter which looks like soap but rubs off and melts into the skin. The colourful and quirky Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden is an interesting place too, as the precinct hosts some of the UK’s leading independent organic and natural health retailers, including the famous Neal’s Yard Remedies which was founded quite ahead of its time in 1981.
Of course, mistakes have been made here, and there’s always room for improvement. In London that is particularly highlighted when it comes to water conservation, where the city struggles due to ageing and leaking pipes. However, plans are underway to address the issue, and citizens are behind the push. London has been internationally recognised for sustainability innovations such as congestion tax and its robust transit system. Importantly, because players at the top of the game are setting an example and encouraging sustainable lifestyles − gardens, cycling, conserving energy and recycling − the people are following suit. From my perspective, on my ‘home front’, many Australians are doing their utmost to lead the charge, but there are many others falling behind because of laziness and a poor attitude to sustainability portrayed by many regional councils. One would assume it would be harder to get people to act on a larger scale, such as that of a city like London or New York, but evidently it is entirely possible. And I think that’s a great message for all of us − no matter where we live − moving into the future.
While in London I also took the wonderful, informative and fun Quirky Walking Tour with Helen from Insider London. Two enthusiastic thumbs up if you’re seeking a better way to learn about this interesting metropolis.
Want to talk travel, tech and green designs? We’d love to hear from you. Come and visit on FACEBOOK or TWITTER
A new day, a new London discovery. Evidently I’m a bit behind on happening across this hip area – just a hop, skip and a jump from London Bridge Tube – but thankfully I now know Bermondsey Street is definitely worth a peek. Or, if you’re looking for an area to stay during your travels, there are options such as Think: Bermondsey, which might satisfy your requirements. Aside from chic coffee shops and boutique bars, and its own annual street festival which happens in September, here are five key reasons to seek out Bermondsey…
Discovering Bermondsey Street in London
1. Insiders tell me this is one of the Top 3 restaurant streets in London, and there’s a rule here: no chains. The calibre and quality you’ll love is all local – produce (much of it from Borough Market, just up the road) and chef talent. French, Spanish, Italian … it’s here, and it’s delicious.
2. London’s Fashion & Textile Museum is here! Founded by iconic British designer, Zandra Rhodes, the centre showcases a programme of changing exhibitions exploring elements of fashion, textile and jewellery.
3. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust HQ is here on Bermonsey Street too. I know!! Thank me later ;-) Here you’ll discover all sorts of courses and events of interest for beverage enthusiasts.
4. The White Cube Gallery is very cool, and hosts a range of modern art and exhibitions.
5. Don’t miss the famous Bermondsey Square antiques market every Friday. The market itself has an interesting – if not dubious (according to my sources) – history, but, it’s still around today for you to browse … be early though, as the good pieces sell quickly.
Do you have an insider London tip? Share with fellow fans of the city, on FACEBOOK or TWITTER x
I was recently contacted by a TravelLiveLearn.com reader who is excited to be touring Europe this summer with our fab mates from Expat Explore. As it’s her first time on tour in Europe in the summer, she was keen to know what she should take, and she was confused by the plethora of information available on the Internet. Being that this seemed like a valid travel query, I’ve decided to post my answer and suggestions here for anyone else lucky enough to be touring through Europe in 2013 (bliss!).
Summer tour packing tips:
High heels are not required. You definitely do need flip flops, comfortable walking shoes (there’s LOTS of walking which is fine, but you need comfy, supportive shoes that aren’t too worn), and one other pair of casual type shoes that will double for if you go out or want to wear something different to dinner – I’d suggest an easy-going, pretty pair of wedges or mid heels – an ‘all rounder’ kind of shoe. Regarding clothes and shoes, you will find that you wear the same things over and over, and a lot of the items you pack ‘just in case’ (eg. high heels, a pretty shirt that you don’t wear often, a new skirt…), you won’t wear at all. It will be hot, so think of what you feel most comfortable in when you’re at home in summer – that’s what you end up wearing all the time!
Regarding medications, obviously if you have a particular condition (eg. asthma), be prepared. Perhaps buy a packet of travel sickness tablets in case you get motion sickness from the coach or plane. If you’re in any way unsure if you get sick while travelling, get some to have on hand – always better to be prepared, and these are generally sold over the counter in pharmacies. I would always also bring a packet of paracetamol, non-drowsy antihistamines (eg. Zyrtec or cheaper generic brand), a pack of Nurofen (Ibuprofen), and not that we needed it, but I always carry something for diarrhea. Ladies, if you tend towards urinary tract problems, it’s probably a good idea to take Ural sachets (or similar), just in case. I’d also suggest taking a multivitamin with you (or Berocca), to keep your immune system up to speed. They’re exciting but long days.
You will also need a good sun cream (for face and body) – essential! – and perhaps insect repellent is a good idea too.
Prescription medicinals – Chat to your doctor in advance regarding any potential issues with health, anxiety, sleeping or illness, and make sure any prescription medication is properly labelled.
Pack light! Start a list before you go that only includes what you would wear in the summer you’re used to. Leave room in your bags, because you’ll want to stock up on food and alcohol at supermarkets along the way – trust me, this is the cheapest and most efficient way, especially if you’ve already invested a fortune in your trip already for example, if you’ve had to fork out for an airfare from the other side of the world to get to Europe/UK in the first place.
Another reason to pack light – it’s cheap enough to buy various season-appropriate clothes on the road, and let’s face it, you’ll be going shopping anyway (it’s half the fun)! Pack your comfiest shorts/skirts/tshirts – this is what you’ll live in. I am not a shorts person, but I think 90% of days on the road I lived in a denim skirt, t-shirt or singlet, hat, walking shoes and socks. All the other rubbish I had in my bag was just annoying to carry around! Also you won’t need jeans I don’t think – it’s too hot at that time of year, and they’re heavy. Pack a light cardigan or long-sleeved shirt, but remember, you can layer with singlets and t-shirts if it’s at all chilly anywhere (which I doubt it will be).
Enjoy the summer! If you have other packing tips for travelling Europe please do share, either in the comments below, or find us at Facebook.com/TravelLiveLearn or Tweet @sarahblinco.
If you’re considering a trip with Expat Explore, read about our first-hand experience HERE (we had a blast!).
Are you considering a tour such as the one I’ve just been on with Back Roads Touring in the UK? Cooper and I are fans of tours because put simply, if you’re short on time / on your own / not travelled much / don’t want the hassle of getting lost or stuck in dreadful accommodation, then generally with a tour you can’t go wrong. There are however, some important factors to remember if you’re embarking on a tour. Further to this, if you begin a tour in London but are a first-timer in the city, here are a few tips that may be of use…
Top tour travel tips London and UK
11 tips/preparing for a tour + first time in London:
How long will you be in London – is it worthwhile buying an Oyster (transport) Card? My rule of thumb is that if you’re going to be commuting in London for over three days then buy a ‘weekly pass’ – it’s MUCH cheaper than ‘topping up’ all the time and allows Tube and bus travel in all the areas you’re going to need. If travelling within the city for just a day or two, buy a ‘day pass’ each day, unless you literally are only planning one trip on the Tube for the day (unlikely).
Consider day tour options around the city – it’s huge with lots to see. The ‘big red bus’ hop-on-hop-off option is always a good one.
Be careful when commuting on buses and the Tube – while these services are efficient for familiar users, sometimes visitors will find the rush of busy passengers overwhelming and insensitive. Be aware that buses can pull off without warning.
PLAN what you want to see and where you want to go – Tower of London, Kensington Palace etc. Organise passes in advance. London is vast, and it can be arduous and tiring to navigate if you’re unfamiliar with the city.
Most pubs and cafes offer free WiFi, so if your hotel is charging through the roof for this service, chances are there is a free option within just a block or two of your location.
On tour, always be on time back to the coach – it is only fair on the driver/guide and fellow passengers, and it’s very stressful for everyone if people have to wait and/or come searching for you.
Never go anywhere / leave the coach without a credit card and your passport, as well as contact number(s) for your guide and other emergency contact details – just in case!
In the UK, Orange Mobile offers inexpensive pay-as-you-go SIM cards (easy to top up at any ATM) that can be utilised in most mobile phones, iPhones, and even iPad / tablet options. Orange or T-Mobile shops are all over London.
Don’t over-pack! Inevitably everyone who ends up with too many (large) bags admits they’ve brought too much, and it becomes painstaking trying to get from one place to another. Also, take clothes that you can mix, match and layer. It helps to bring clothes you can wash together too – you don’t want to be doing ‘separate loads’ on the go. If you’re stopping somewhere for two nights, do your washing as soon as you stop which leaves ample time for drying. Wrap washing in a towel and ring as much water out of it as you can, then hang washing around the room or on coat hangers. Jeans are serviceable, but can be quite heavy if you take too many.
Ask your tour guide where the nearest supermarket is, and buy your water in big bottles which is far cheaper.
If you see a person travelling on their own, include them in your outings. The more people you embrace, the better. You’ll also get more out of your trip by talking to and getting to know your co-travellers.
As those of you reading this blog will know, I’ve recently been on a journey through the ‘Heart of England’ with Back Roads Touring in the UK (organised via Escape Travel in Australia).
Back Roads Touring offers a wide range of options throughout the UK and Europe, and in fact I have my eye on several more trips in the UK that I’d love to book over the coming year or so (particularly the Corners of Cornwall 7-day, The Red Dragon of Wales 6-day, and Secrets of Southern England 4-day tours – take a look at the itineraries on the website and you’ll understand why). A few of our co-travellers had even booked two or three Back Roads Touring adventures in a row, with our Heart of England tour sitting in the middle of their holiday plans.
The Heart of England tour itself though is a classic choice, especially if you’re trying to decide on one particular option in the country. Four days was a nice length of time to be on a tour, there were no early morning starts and we generally had enough time to explore each destination. Best of all, this tour offers an overview of all that we’d typically associate with England – green countryside, old English pubs, castles, royalty, Shakespeare, medieval sites all the way through to mythological and mysterious destinations such as Stonehenge.
Evidently these tours are ideal for a person with a mature, intelligent and interested mindset who is a keen, (sometimes) seasoned traveller seeking a low-stress adventure, as well as quality, comfortable accommodation and up-market dining options.
With so many tour operators to choose from these days, why consider Back Roads Touring?
Small travel groups.
Mini bus means travelling through towns and seeing them (many large buses can’t go where Back Roads Touring can).
Quality dining options.
Personalised service including travel advice and assistance.
The opportunity to get to know everyone on board.
Relaxed travel experience.
Expert guides who introduce ‘local’ experiences at each tour stop.
Pleasant accommodation.
Aspirational destinations.
Back Roads Touring offers the discerning traveller the ultimate in exploration options based on over 25-years experience in the small group and tailor-made tour industry in this region.
My own trip highlights? This time around I’d definitely say Windsor Castle (vast, stunning, lavish, historical) and Stratford upon Avon (romantic… Shakespeare! Need I say more?). I was also impressed by the accommodation and delicious meals that were part of the ‘Back Roads Touring’ experience.
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