After all that it appears it may already be over. In case you hadn’t figured it out, I’m writing this on my last morning in the UK. I never thought that on my way towards Canada (my ultimate travel destination) I’d feel despondent; I feel a bit like a broken-hearted girlfriend not ready to let it all go. Moving to England had its challenges and certainly it took us a good six months to settle in. Overcoming it all is part of the ultimate achievement though; in April we found a ‘home’ in a chic London Fields neighbourhood, settled in, the weather was sweet and I fell a little in love with London.
Apparently all good things must come to an end and although I’m grateful to finally get to travel to Canada again, I am sad to think it might a long while before I return to my ‘mother-land’ (which originally I had joked about, but I literally just discovered the sentiment to be true in a cool twist of history this week). Here is a land where I’ve fitted in, where the shopping is great, the people fun, surroundings energetic, buildings like The Tower of London are old and amazing and history of The Tudors and co. are everywhere in a contemporary setting, media and travel opportunities abound, and the pub culture is something that I actually enjoy…
Isn’t it ironic when you feel more at home somewhere else than ‘home’. Sounds like a song.
In preparation for this day, I’d compiled a list of my favourite things about England, specifically London. So, in celebration of the good times (which more often than not were at Bar Soho with our mates Nicole and Iain, Janice and Craig or the Fairbairn’s) I give you:
The things I love most about living here (ongoing list compiled 2010/2011):
1.It’s so cool (weather-wise) that I can wear my hair out (and grow it)! A simple pleasure but one that is difficult to enjoy in Queensland’s humidity.
2.Being able to wear hats, scarves and boots (special mention to Accessorize, and the accessories at Camden Markets)!
3.Darren Hayes and Gillian Anderson live here – awesome!
4.Seeing dogs bemused by squirrels in the park haha. And on that note, Squirrels score their own mention – I love ‘em. Have you ever noticed how they seem to play in pairs? So cute.
6.My truly, genuinely nice bunch of Sparkle girls.
7. London Fields, Middleton Road, The Pub on the Park, Broadway Market.
8.Dog people – everywhere!
9. Having the opportunity to meet inspiring writers, journalists, and people from all walks in general who are just really good (and accomplished) at what they do.
10.That people say ‘Bless You’: from others outside the UK it sounds a little out of place (except for my mum, she’s cute and has always said this); but many people say ‘Bless You’ affectionately here. I think it’s sweet, and quite ‘English’ in my experience.
And an honorary mention to Tesco, Saisburys, Waitrose, Boots and Superdrug – I miss you already.
It’s with a lump in my throat that I bid farewell to my ‘other’ home, all gloomy weather and grey skies that you generally may be. I hope to see you again sooner than anticipated. In the meantime who knows where we’ll end up? I only hope that the wishes we made upon superstitious monuments in various parts of Europe come true: that we continue to live happy, healthy, inspirational and adventurous lives. But shortly – time for a maple syrup fix! x
It’s amazing to know that in this day and age – following numerous wars, conflicts, industrial changes and migration to all corners of the world – that a medieval building like Blencowe Hall can be visited by me. Me, an Aussie living in London, coming back home, almost.
I say ‘by me’ because Blencowe Hall belonged to an original ancestor of mine in the Blinco clan.
I had the chance to visit Blencowe Hall because of my ancestral roots. You can actually hire the place for an event. It’s exquisite, set in the countryside just outside of Penrith, UK.
Blencowe Hall – the story
As two cyclists pause with cameras on the country path border of the gorgeous property I’m dancing excitedly around, I’m proud to say ‘it’s mine’!
Well, sort of.
You see, today we ventured to a village, more precisely a property, Blencowe Hall (pictured above).
‘Blencowe’, as you may have noticed, is quite similar to ‘Blinco’.
If you had figured that far, perhaps you correctly assumed that this is somehow related to me.
Related it is, literally, because over the past few years my family in Australia, along with a dedicated international group has been researching, documenting and sharing our ancestry.
It hails all the way from here – a little place called Blencow in northern England.
A book has even been published on our origins – American and Australian migrants.
It covers our surname variations – Blencow, Blencowe, Blincoe, Blinco.
We’re lucky because our surname is unique and more easily traceable than some.
One popular theory over this side of the world is that a young lad, Robert Blincoe, was actually the ‘real’ Oliver Twist! But I digress from my actual journey which leads me to The Lakes District.
This area is a well-know ‘must-do’ on any UK itinerary.
But it’s a journey that has become a special individual quest as well. What an extraordinary place to find!
Exploring Blencowe Hall
Among other accolades, the property (its owners and architect at time of publishing) won a 2009 Design Award, and in 2010 was an RICS North West winner of a Building Conservation award as supported by the English Heritage Council.
The estate continues to undergo renovations, but is now regularly used for parties, functions, special gatherings and events.
We were lucky enough to enjoy a private viewing.
While it has been restored to the ultimate in chic, original aspects of Blencowe Hall remain both inside and out, including stone staircases, windowsills and fireplaces.
Furnishings within complement the old-world feel, with antique wardrobes, dressers and bookshelves completing each room.
Stylish and contemporary fittings are all visitors will find in the bathrooms, kitchen and entertainment areas though.
The main home comprises of a lavish entrance hall, two reception rooms, massive kitchen and pantry.
There are three large levels boasting five bedrooms, a study bedroom, six bathrooms, mature gardens, traditional and modern range of outbuildings (including stables) across 55 hectares.
A spectacular dark glazed window over the huge crack in the south tower is the centrepiece of this unique renovation. The project was lovingly embarked upon by the property’s [current] London-based owners who spent hundreds of thousands of pounds on restoring the structure.
Their vision was to transform ruins into a historical kind of luxury.
Location of Blencowe Hall
Blencowe Hall is listed as a Grade 1 fortified medieval manor. It’s undergone ambitious renovations over the past ten years.
Perched atop a bluff above the small river of Peterill, it is surrounded by its own fields and views to the Lakeland Fells.
Blencowe Hall is nearby to the village of Greystoke which is dominated by Greystoke Castle. It’s near a fabulous pub (always important!), the Crown Inn that’s located in the Hamlet of Blencowe. Blencowe Hall is positioned on the very edge of the stunning Lakes District.
The discovery of Roman ruins, gold coins dating back to the reign of James I, artefacts and reportedly the oldest indoor toilets in the region point to the historical interest of this property.
For me though, it’s personal.
Knights and Queens at Blencowe Hall
The people who originally lived here and ran the estate are, we’ve recently discovered, my family.
Sir Henry de Blencowe was one of the most prominent members of my ancestors to live here.
Having served twice as High Sheriff of Cumberland, in 1617 he was knighted (fab!) by King James I.
Evidently there was some scandal surrounding this knighthood, but that’s ok – it’s not my place to query and am happy to have knights in my family ;-)
Another interesting link is ‘The Nine Days Queen’ angle.
Anthony Blencowe was the sixth generation of the family at Blencowe Hall. He married Winnifred Dudley who was a relation of Lord Guildford Dudley, the husband of Lady Jane Grey (that is, the ill-fated Queen of England for nine days).
Her connection to Blencowe Hall is recalled in a dedication over the main entrance in the Central Range.
It’s thought to have been inscribed by Sir Henry Blencowe during extensive renovations of the property in the late 1500s.
The inscription is in Latin but is said to read:
“Live still to die, that you by death may purchase eternal life.”
It’s a sentiment Lady Jane wrote to her sister the night before her sad end.
Alas, poor Lady Jane was caught up in the whole ‘King Edward VI (15-years-old) nominating her to be Queen before he died’ affair.
Mary (his half sister, soon-to-turn-a-bit-crazy-on-England, and daughter of Henry VIII) was not pleased at this declaration and managed to take the throne in the end.
Consequently Lady Jane ended up beheaded, along with Lord Dudley.
Interestingly (and on a similar thread), Robert Dudley, a later descendant of the Dudley family, is thought to have Royal connections.
He was one of Queen Elizabeth I’s favourite suitors. How exciting – just like an episode of The Tudors!
At the beginning
Most importantly in relation to Blencowe Hall, the original who made it all happen was a gentleman by the name of Adam de Blencowe.
He is the earliest traceable ancestor of our family and founder of the lands we visit here.
Adam’s estate was gradually built up in the area through the 1300s primarily thanks to gifts of land received for ‘loyal service’ from King Edward III.
Adam was actually knighted too, and granted a coat of arms. How extraordinary to think of this lifetime long ago that I’m linked to! A fascinating world of knights, manors, legends and romance. Actually, I made the romance bit up, but I’m sure it’s in there somewhere…
Another amazing historical fact: during excavation work in the area, archaeologists found an ancient Roman drainage system.
It ran from the main courtyard area of Blencowe Hall, under the north tower and out into the garden. This was measured, recorded and left intact under the new floors because it is working just as well now as it ever did!
Elsewhere around the area
Rain dissipating (finally) and sun emerging, we bid farewell to my own Downtown Abbey… er, sorry, Blencowe Hall, and zoomed off down the M6 towards Windermere.
Here you’ll find the most gorgeous (and largest) lake in England. This region around Windermere is famous for inspiring writers like William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter.
I have to admit, after visiting the quaint village with its water activities, cute dogs and bird-life, ice-cream shops and sweet local gift shops I was definitely in an inspired mood.
We headed back towards Penrith via scenic winding back roads, past the equally pretty lake-land precinct of Ullswater, across rolling green hills lined with mysterious stone walls and dotted with old homes and pubs.
A fabulous, interesting, intriguing and uniquely lovely day.
Be inspired to visit the region – view our Flickr album from Blencowe Hall and the Lakes District.
Getting there
nationalrail.co.uk train from Edinburgh, Manchester or London to Penrith.
Blencowe Hall is available to book or view by appointment.
Why stay in Penrith?
This Cumbrian market town is well-served by transport from all over the UK. It’s a quaint, historical spot to stop and within easy driving (or train) distance of all The Lakes District attractions including Blencowe Hall, Windermere and Ullswater.
Accommodation
The Roundthorn, Penrith for its large lovely rooms, scenic views, fantastic service, delicious breakfast and free WiFi.
Getting around
Cabs are simple and reasonable here, but for exploration of the Lakes District try Enterprise rent-a-car. They offered us pick-up + drop-off service (with a smile) and an economical deal. More on: 01768 893840 or enterprise.co.uk
Dublin itself is easy to navigate by bus, hop-on-hop-off tours or simply by walking around with a map (our fave option on a budget).
The buildings are beautiful especially if you’re partial to a little old architecture. I particularly like the cathedrals and have a soft spot for the imposing Trinity College Dublin building.
Like all tourists, we found ourselves wandering around the popular Temple Bar district which fell into disrepair in the ‘60s but over the past few decades has been regenerated to its present state – bars, clubs, touristy shops.
We had some fun hanging out at lively places like The Purty Kitchen Bar & Club offering fab cocktail specials and brilliant live traditional band, and The Quays pub which also featured a fantastic live band on Saturday night.
Evidently though, this area is not the precinct where locals would go and tends to be more expensive because of all the visitors.
Dublin is renowned for being quite expensive. We found that yes, it can be, however unlike many other places we’ve just visited in Europe, there are cheaper options here in regards to food and shopping. Wander outside the usual tourist precincts and ‘shop around’ before handing over your cash.
Dublin to Glendalough / County Wicklow day trip
With only a couple of days in the area, we were keen to see a little more of ‘Ireland’ outside the ‘big smoke’. We invested in an inexpensive tour run by Day Tours Unplugged, a TripAdvisor award-winner for 2011.
This group offer three various day trips around Dublin’s outskirts, but we chose the Wicklow tour, beloved for the picturesque stops and even a few film locations thrown into the mix.
Yesterday our friendly guide, Steven, took us exploring through gorgeous areas like Sally Gap, Glenmacnass, Glendalough with its 6th Century ruins and stunning ‘Valley of the two lakes’, and quaint Avoca Village.
We’d highly recommend these kinds of experiences for a true taste of authentic Irish countryside that is a little off the usual tourist track; We even made some new American friends – mother and son team Leslie and Nick, from Ohio.
Why do we love tours? For the travel, education and the friends!
Something we have begun to invest in recently is tours. This may on first thought seem to be the expensive option, or less adventurous; but more often than not, when on the ground in a big city like London, for example, you can find reasonably-priced touring options, and it is worth comparing the cost of these verses independent travel alternatives.
When time is an issue (and for most of us it is), we’ve come to recognise that a decent tour can potentially teach more about a place than might be learned in a short space on your own, especially if you’ve only got a day or so to spare in a new destination. Perhaps a tour is worth your consideration too, because by the time car hire or transport, accommodation, plus language barriers are factored in, tours are sometimes the cost-effective answer (eg. Expat Explore Europe, day tours such as Dublin Bus, Haggis Adventures in Scotland, City Sightseeing (big red hop-on-hop-off bus etc.); and even walking tours that are offered in many places.
Ultimate 6 top tour tips
1. Utilise the supermarket! If we had our time over in Europe we would take a spare case (and even a cooler bag or esky) to enable us to ‘stock up’ when there is access to a supermarket. It is by far cheaper to keep food and alcohol on hand – you will inevitably eat and drink on tour, and it’s better to have paid the equivalent of less than $2 per meal or beverage than over $5 or even $10 per unit.
2.Keep emergency numbers, passport, credit card(s) and phone with you at ALL times. Anything can happen in the time between when you step off the tour coach and when you’re supposed to meet back. Be prepared in the event of an emergency, in case you get lost or you need to make your way elsewhere on your own. It’s a last resort but can happen.
3.Multivitamins – to combat sickness, lethargy and exhaustion. It’s easy to pick up germs when travelling with a group in a confined space so being at optimum health is advantageous.
4.Walk away from the centre of town and main attractions – without exception food, coffee, souvenirs – everything in fact, is significantly cheaper.
5.Sun cream (especially a once-a-day application version like Ultrasun which can be applied in the morning before you head out to conveniently protect throughout the day), and insect repellent are essential (particularly for summer adventures).
6. Make the most out of your time by talking to others – introduce yourself, ask questions, learn about your co-travellers. Even if this isn’t your usual ‘thing’, it pays in the long run and helps forge bonds. If others join a group at varying points in time, remember to also include them into the fold. The life-long friends you’ll make are worth a little effort and personality. Plus, think how it feels when someone bothers to include you – nice, ain’t it?
Once upon a time, in lands far far away, travellers from Australia, New Zealand, UK, America, Canada, Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, South Africa, Thailand, Malaysia prepared for the Europe trip of a lifetime: 14 countries across 26 days – 2011 being the first year Expat Explore has offered such an itinerary, and our journey just the second on this route!
Reasonably timid at first, we politely greeted each other by the coach at Expat Explore’s Canada Water (London) meeting spot in early August. So much ahead − travel discoveries and many new friends who by now are comfortable around each other – dirty jokes, no make-up and singing presently part of our daily repertoire.
We’re back on the ferry that runs between Calais and Dover, where we met Sarah and Amy for the first time, strangers, but now we are friends.
Amanda and Phil, and Evan and Leann now cross back to the UK as engaged couples! Phil, Rose, Brad, Alex, Cassie and Ash head back to resume life as Aussie expats in the UK. Amy’s off to live in Paris for a year; sadly mother and daughter teams Lindsay and Shawna, and Grace and Caroline part ways again to live in separate countries. Davin will meet up again with his lovely sister, Sarah, who was on the first half of our trip, while Will and Ann continue through Europe for a little while longer before moving back to NZ. Hector may meet up with fellow Espanol-speaker Julio (who left alongside Sarah in Rome) for a drink in London. Tash and Frank will continue to travel for a while, like us. Sapna and her lovely family will get back to life and work in Johannesburg, and Isaac (our birthday boy yesterday) is heading up to Scotland for a week to party with some old friends.
It was extremely sad to say goodbye to our fellow travellers this morning who were staying in Paris for varying reasons, and especially to farewell Ali, our tour guide who has given us so much over the past 26-days – information, inspiration, friendship and leadership.
We’re all unsure about how to resume a normal routine after this, but as with everything in life, we’ll just get on with it. Thank God for Facebook and its ease of staying in touch!
Last night we each said goodbye to the experience in our own way: Tash, Frank, Evan and Leann among a few others spent some time down by the Eiffel Tower with wine, sparklers and cameras, of course. Will and Ann met up with some local mates, cruised around Paris and took a moment to pay tribute to Diana at the spot where she passed – would you believe yesterday evening marked the 14th year anniversary of her tragic death.
A crew of us went out in the Latin Quarter to indulge in ‘happy hour’ cocktails at the ‘sexy time’ Latin Quarter lounge bar and the fabulous pub/club/karaoke spot diagonally opposite Notre Dame Cathedral, Bar St Michel for singing and dancing.
Paris is divine and I’m glad to have had another chance to explore its beautiful boulevards and especially to have had another look at (and inside) one of my favourite buildings in the world, Notre Dame Cathedral. Of course everyone’s day included different sites, and much of the group explored as one during two walking tours of the city. A fitting final day and night on what has been a truly fabulous trip which we initially embarked upon for the sake of ‘travel’, but which I’d also recommend for the surprise element – the people, friends, that you meet and bond with along the way.
To Ali, Steve our lovely, professional coach driver, and all the group who I may or may not have mentioned in this particular post, it’s been brilliant, and just as each place we have visited has its own charm, you all have your own gorgeous personalities and have each contributed in your own way to make the experience extra special. We hope to see you all again online and in person soon.
Travel safe and thanks for the memories x
PS if you are in Paris and located near the Jaures metro stop (as we were), be sure to indulge in a meal at Les Delices d’Amour (3 Avenue Jen Jaures 75019). I told them I’d give them a ‘shout out’ (hi guys!), but I think the fact we ate there four times in 24 hours is testament to how good the food is (and inexpensive too). The line out the door at lunchtime somewhat resembles that of The Soup Nazi’s on Seinfeld so don’t miss out if you’re in the neighbourhood.
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As two cyclists pause with cameras on the country path border of the gorgeous property I’m dancing excitedly around, I’m proud to say ‘it’s mine’!
Furnishings within complement the old-world feel, with antique wardrobes, dressers and bookshelves completing each room.
A spectacular dark glazed window over the huge crack in the south tower is the centrepiece of this unique renovation. The project was lovingly embarked upon by the property’s [current] London-based owners who spent hundreds of thousands of pounds on restoring the structure.
